I posed the question to find
by dimensional analysis the dispersion
relation w(k) for surface
waves on water. We considered deep water,
so the wavelength is short
compared to the depth. In that case the
depth can't affect the waves.
If the wavelength is long enough however,
then surface tension can
be neglected, and the wave is called a
"gravity wave", since the
restoring force is gravity. For short
enough wavelengths, the
surface tension becomes dominant. Those waves
are called capillary waves.
In the two limits, the class found the
results:
w = Sqrt[gk]
gravity
w = Sqrt[sigma k^3/rho]
capillary
where g is the acceleration
of gravity at the earth's surface,
sigma is the surface tension,
with dimensions energy/area,
or force/length, and rho
is the mass density.
The dispersion relation that combines them correctly is
w^2 = gk + (sigma/rho)k^3.
I suggested you could guess
this since Newton's law m x_tt = F_1 + F_2
is second order in time
derivatives, and additive in forces, suggesting
the above form.
The question was now to use
this to understand the phenomenon
of standing ripples upstream
from a rock in a river. If the flow
is fast enough, such a pattern
forms, and has a wavelength that
is shorter the higher the
speed. You can think of these waves
as travelling upstream,
but getting nowhere since the water speed
is equal and opposite to
the phase velocity. So, use the above dispersion
relation to find the critical
water speed, and the corresponding
wavelength of the ripples.
Find a formula, and find the numerical
values in cm/s and cm. You
may need to make an approximation or
use a computer or root finding
calculator (although I think the
numbers are such that one
can get a very pretty very accurate analytic
approximation). Also find
how the ripple wavelength depends on the
speed of the water.